Our Lifting Edges
Ergo Series
Forge Series
Why Ergo Edges?
Our Ergo Edges feature authentic wooden contact surfaces that provide superior friction and a natural feel compared to traditional plastic or resin edges. The ergonomic design reduces strain on tendons while maximizing training effectiveness.
- Real Wood Contact: Natural grip and warmth
- Ergonomic Profile: Reduces tendon stress
- Multiple Depths: Progressive training options
- Durable Construction: Built to last years
Pulley Injury Support
Designed in collaboration with climbing physiotherapists, our pulley splints provide optimal support for A2 and A4 pulley injuries while maintaining finger mobility during the recovery process.
- Medical-Grade Design: Physio-approved support
- Adjustable Fit: Custom tension control
- Low Profile: Comfortable under tape
- Quick Application: Easy on/off system
About Us
Finger strength is the foundation of climbing performance. Our professional assessment service uses precision force measurement equipment and scientifically validated testing protocols to provide climbers with accurate, objective data about their finger strength capabilities. We measure Critical Force (maximum recruitment), Rate of Force Development (explosive power), Maximum Voluntary Contraction (peak strength), and Power Endurance (sustained performance).
Based at The Climbing Hangar in London, we bring laboratory-grade testing to the climbing community. Each assessment includes comprehensive analysis of your results, comparison to normative data, identification of strengths and weaknesses, and personalized training recommendations. We also offer premium training equipment including our Ergo Edges hangboard system and professional-grade pulley injury support splints.
Whether you're establishing your baseline metrics as a beginner, tracking progress through a training cycle, or optimizing performance as an elite athlete, our assessment service provides the objective data you need to train smarter and climb stronger.
What Climbers Say
"The assessment gave me concrete data on my finger strength for the first time. Knowing my exact numbers helped me structure my training properly and track real progress."
"After a pulley injury, the assessment helped me understand my recovery progress objectively. The detailed analysis gave me confidence to return to hard climbing safely."
"Professional service with clear explanations. The assessment identified weaknesses I didn't know I had and gave me actionable training targets. Highly recommend."
Climbing Finger Strength Assessments in London
Located at The Climbing Hangar London for convenient finger strength assessments near you.
All assessments need to be completed after at least 24h rest for the most accurate results.
Critical Force Assessment
- Critical Force assessments of both hands in your chosen grip.
- Interactive dashboard of the session with easy to understand charts and tables
- 15% discount for follow up
Components of Critical Force:
- Short-Term Maximum Strength: The Critical Force Test assesses an athlete’s finger strength. It reveals the maximum strength available for short bursts of effort.
- Long-Term Muscular Endurance: Critical force also gauges an athlete’s ability to maintain sustained effort over time. It’s not just about explosive power; it’s about enduring.
- Energy Storage: The forearms play a crucial role in climbing. Critical force helps determine how efficiently an athlete’s forearms store and release energy during climbs.
Practical Application:
- Imagine a long, sustained climb—critical force determines whether you can maintain your grip and movement without fatiguing prematurely.
- For sport climbers aiming to send challenging routes, optimizing critical force is essential. It’s the ticket to climbing harder and longer.
| Title | Info |
|---|---|
| Grip | Half crimp or Open/Chisel |
| Hand | Both |
| Length of assessment | 1 hour |
| Extras | You will get a detailed chart of the assessments along with a complete chart and table of the RFD breakdown |
RFD Assessment
- Rate of Force Development assessments of both hands in your chosen grip.
- Interactive dashboard of the session with easy to understand charts and tables
- 15% discount for follow up
Practical Applications:
- When climbing challenging routes, especially those with tiny holds and demanding moves, RFD becomes critical, as these situations demand force exertion within tight time windows to prevent falling.
- Dynamic Moves: Climbing involves dynamic movements, latching holds, launching for distant grips, or pulling through cruxes. A high RFD enables you to execute these moves swiftly.
- RFD is crucial for injury prevention in climbing. When climbers lack sufficient RFD, they may resort to awkward movements or excessive strain on tendons and ligaments to compensate for the lack of explosive power. This can increase the risk of overuse injuries and strain on the connective tissues.
| Title | Info |
|---|---|
| Grip | Half crimp or Open/Chisel |
| Hand | Both |
| Length of assessment | 30 min |
| Extras | You will get a detailed chart of the assessments along with a complete chart and table of the RFD breakdown |
MVC Assessment
- Maximum Voluntary Contraction assessments of both hands in your chosen grip for 5s, 7s and 10s periods
- Interactive dashboard of the session with easy to understand charts and tables
- 15% discount for follow up
Practical Applications:
- The importance of MVC lies in its direct correlation with performance. A climber with a higher MVC can exert more force, enabling them to tackle more demanding routes or make harder moves.
- Increasing MVC not only improves climbing performance but also reduces the risk of injury. Stronger muscles can better support the climber's body weight and absorb shock, reducing the strain on tendons and ligaments. Additionally, a higher MVC allows climbers to maintain control and stability, decreasing the likelihood of falls or slips.
- Knowing your MVC helps tailor training programs and identify areas for improvement.
| Title | Info |
|---|---|
| Grip | Half crimp or Open/Chisel |
| Length of assessment | 30 min |
| Extras | Complete chart of sessions |
Power Endurance Assessment
- Power Endurance assessments of both hands in your chosen grip.
- Interactive dashboard of the session with easy to understand charts and tables
- 15% discount for follow up
Practical Application:
- By enhancing your power endurance, you’ll be better equipped to handle sustained sequences, cruxes, and demanding sections. You’ll be less likely to pump out early, allowing you to complete longer routes with confidence.
| Title | Info |
|---|---|
| Grip | Half crimp or Open/Chisel |
| Length of assessment | 1 hour |
| Extras | You will get a detailed charts of results, showing: the complete session, estimated power endurance |