Training Resources & Apps

Hangboard (fingerboard) training is one of the most effective ways to build finger strength for climbing — but only when done correctly. Here is a simple framework to get started safely.

1. Warm up properly
   Never start cold. Do 10–15 minutes of light movement: easy climbing, arm circles, wrist rotations, and gentle open-hand stretching. Your tendons take much longer than muscles to warm up.
2. Choose the right grip
   The half-crimp (90° at the middle knuckle, open at the fingertip) is the safest starting grip. Avoid full crimp when beginning — the extra load on the A2 pulley is the main cause of finger injuries.
3. Pick an edge size
   Start with a larger edge (20–25 mm) so you can focus on form. You should be able to hang for at least 10 seconds without shaking. Move to smaller edges only once you're consistent.
4. Work-to-rest ratio
   A beginner-friendly protocol is 7 seconds on / 53 seconds off, 6–8 repeats per set. This gives your tendons enough time to recover between reps. Rushing rest is the most common mistake.
5. Progressive overload
   Add difficulty gradually — either by reducing edge size, increasing hang duration, or adding weight (via a weight belt). Change only one variable at a time and track each session.
6. Rest days
   Finger tendons adapt slowly. 48 hours minimum between hangboard sessions is a safe baseline. Most climbers train 2–3 sessions per week on the hangboard at most.

After your assessment you'll receive an interactive dashboard. Here is a quick reference for what the key metrics mean and how to use them.

• Critical Force (CF) — the load you can sustain indefinitely without fatigue accumulation. A higher CF relative to body weight means better endurance on sustained routes.
• W' (W-prime) — your finite anaerobic capacity above CF. A larger W' means you can absorb harder moves before you cross into unrecoverable fatigue.
• Rate of Force Development (RFD) — how quickly you generate force at contact. High RFD is key for dynamic moves and slopers.
• Maximum Voluntary Contraction (MVC) — your peak finger strength over 5–10 seconds. Forms the ceiling from which CF and RFD are scaled.
• CF/MVC ratio — a useful indicator of relative endurance. Typical range in trained climbers is 45–65%. A low ratio with high MVC suggests you have strength but limited aerobic finger capacity.

The Astur Timer is designed to remove all cognitive load during your hangboard sets. You configure your protocol once, then focus entirely on hanging.

1. Set your work interval
   Enter the number of seconds you will hang each rep. Common values: 7 s, 10 s, or match your MVC duration from your assessment.
2. Set your rest interval
   Enter rest time in seconds. The default 7:53 protocol uses 53 s rest. Longer rest (90–120 s) is appropriate for strength-focused (heavy-weight) sessions.
3. Set number of reps and sets
   Configure how many reps per set and how many sets you plan to complete. The timer handles all transitions automatically.
4. Start and listen
   Audio cues signal each phase change. Keep the screen visible but you don't need to watch it — the sounds are enough to guide the session.

Your assessment gives you a baseline and specific numbers to train with. Here is how to structure the weeks between assessments to make the most of that data.

• Use your CF as your intensity anchor. For endurance-focused work, train at 60–80% of MVC for long hangs. For strength work, train above 90% MVC for short hangs.
• Minimum block length: 6–8 weeks. Meaningful tendon adaptation takes time. Reassessing every 4 weeks is usually too frequent to see statistically clear change.
• Track everything. Use the Astur Logger to record each session: grip, edge size, load, total hang time, and perceived effort. This makes interpreting your next assessment much more useful.
• Taper before reassessment. In the 5–7 days before your next assessment, reduce volume by ~50% and avoid finger training in the 48 hours before the session.
• Get 15% off your follow-up. All Astur Climbing assessments include a 15% discount on your next booking — use it to track your progress after a training block.